Although it might sound silly, using the correct type and size bobbin for your machine makes a huge difference in stitch performance and quality. There are many types and sizes out there, but the majority are either plastic or metal, and either a Class 66 or Class 15 sized bobbin. Here’s some info on which machines use which bobbins:
This bobbin is used in front/side loading machines that have a removable metal case. This also happens to be the most common bobbin size and type. Use the link above to see if your make and model uses a Class 15 Metal Bobbin.
This bobbin is used in drop in/top loading machines that have a plastic, non-removable case. Be sure to only buy quality bobbins that have a nice flat surface (without ridges) on both top and bottom. Use the link above to see if your make and model uses a Class 15 Plastic Bobbin.
This bobbin is used in drop in/top loading vintage and late model Singer sewing machines that have a non-removable metal bobbin case. Use the link above to see if your make and model uses a Class 66 Metal Bobbin. (Modern Singers typically use Class 15 Bobbins)
This bobbin is used in drop in/top loading vintage and late model Singer sewing machines that have a plastic non-removable plastic case. Use the link above to see if your make and model use a Class 66 Plastic Bobbin. (Modern Singers typically use Class 15 Bobbins)
Hope this info helps make your next bobbin purchase a breeze!!
Stamping is an easy way to create custom fabric for a sewing project, or perk up a tired garment. A few simple tips can help:
1. First, pick the right stamp! Super-detailed commercial stamps are shallow, and the paint will glob right up, giving you a messy blur instead of a crisp image.
Pick a stamp with some depth, and simple shapes, like the floral on the left below…
Or, even better, make your own darn stamps!
2. Now that you’ve got stamps, pick the right paint. You want something designed for fabric — it will adhere better, and stand up to washing. Is your fabric a darker color than your paint? Make sure to get an opaque paint. Read the label! If it doesn’t say it’s opaque, it’s translucent, and the background color will bleed through.
Stamps, check. Paint, check. Now…
3. Assemble a few tools. Foam brushes, a plate to use as a palette, and an old sheet. Fold up the sheet and use it as a slightly padded surface for your fabric — sounds crazy, but it’ll give you a crisper print.
Spoon out some paint, and you’re ready to…
4. KISS THE STAMP! With the ink-laden foam brush, that is. The #1 error that newbie stampers make is overloading their stamp with paint. Stamping is less crisp and more organic than screenprinting, which is part of its charm. But you want an image on your shirt, not a blob!
LESS IS MORE. Lightly smooch the stamp with your foam brush, then firmly press your inked surface to your fabric.
5. Mix and match your stamps. A robot in a flower garden? Why not! Go crazy, and have fun.
6. Yay! Custom print, handmade by you. The only step left is heat-setting your paint. If your item will be washed, it’s essential. Use a press cloth to protect your iron. After your printing is dry (REALLY dry, as in the day after you’ve stamped), iron over your stamped images on the appropriate hot setting for your fabric. Enjoy!
Want to make some stamps? Check out our Stamp Carving class, coming in early November.
- every girl ever responding to a compliment on a skirt/dress that has pockets (via misandrwitch)
hah this is true
Am I the only one who feels like weirdly weighed down in the armpits when I actually *use* said pockets for anything heavier than a pack of gum? When I put my keys in my skirt pockets I feel like I’m gonna pants myself…